Knives & Tools

We usually grab a ceramic sharpening rod that fits right into the scallops of the blade. Unlike a flat stone, you have to treat each “tooth” of the serration individually to get that factory edge back. It takes a bit more patience than a standard blade, but it beats trying to saw through a tomato with a dull piece of metal. We have spent many afternoons in the Ozark Hills fixing up edges that were neglected too long, and a simple rod is the best way to do it. Just run the rod through each notch at the right angle and your Knives & Tools will be back to work in no time.

We treat sharpening like changing the oil in the tractor; it is better to do it too often than not often enough. For a blade that sees regular action, we usually hone the edge every few uses and do a full sharpening every couple of months. In 417-land, we rely on our Knives & Tools for everything from opening feed bags to skinning deer, and a dull edge is just a headache waiting to happen. If the blade starts tearing paper instead of slicing it, it is past time to get to work. Keeping a consistent edge saves you a lot of frustration and effort in the long run.

Removing rust from a folding or pocket knife requires a bit more finesse than a fixed blade because you have to protect the pivot mechanism. We suggest starting with a “soak and scrub” method using a high-quality CLP (Cleaner, Lubricant, Preservative) or a shot of WD-40. Apply the solvent directly to the rusted areas and the pivot, letting it sit for about ten minutes to break the bond of the oxidation. Use a soft-bristled toothbrush to work the gunk out of the locking mechanism and the blade’s surface. High humidity can cause hidden rust inside the liners so blowing out the mechanism with compressed air after cleaning is a vital step. Always finish with a single drop of fresh oil on the pivot to keep the action smooth.